Pembrokeshire's coast is famous for its beaches, but the real adventure lies just beyond the sand. Here's a guide to getting salty in Pembrokeshire without a towel, from coasteering to sea kayaking.

Pembrokeshire Beyond the Beaches

Pembrokeshire. Mention the name and folks think of golden sands and family holidays. And fair enough, spots like Barafundle Bay are picture-postcard perfect. But if you're after something more than sunbathing, Pembrokeshire’s coastline offers a proper shot of adrenaline. It's time to trade the beach towel for a wetsuit and explore the cliffs and coves that most tourists miss.

Coasteering: The Pembrokeshire Special

Coasteering. It's practically a Welsh invention, and Pembrokeshire is one of the best places in the world to do it. If you haven't tried it, imagine scrambling along rocks at the base of cliffs, launching yourself into deep water, swimming into caves, and generally having a laugh. Sounds good, right?

Where to Coasteer

• Blue Lagoon, Abereiddi: This is probably the most popular spot, and for good reason. The old slate quarry is now a stunning natural plunge pool. It’s sheltered, deep, and the jumps are exhilarating (but manageable for most). Parking at Abereiddi is £5 these days, and fills up fast in summer. Get there early, or be prepared for a walk.
• St. Davids Head: For something a bit wilder, head to St. Davids Head. The coastline here is rugged and exposed, so it's best suited to calmer days and experienced coasteerers. The views are immense.
• Stackpole Quay: Near Stackpole, this area offers a mix of rocky coastline and sandy inlets, perfect for a more varied experience. Plus, you can grab a pint at the Stackpole Inn afterwards.

Who to Go With

If you're new to coasteering (and frankly, even if you're not), go with a reputable operator. They'll provide the kit, ensure your safety, and know the best spots for the conditions.

• TYF Adventure: Based in St. Davids, TYF are one of the original coasteering outfits. Their "Coasteering Classic" session will set you back around £60 and is suitable for all levels. They also offer surfing lessons if you want to try your hand at that afterwards.
• Preseli Venture: Up near Mathry, Preseli Venture offer excellent coasteering experiences for £55-£75. They also run boat trips to Ramsey Island, which is a great way to see the Pembrokeshire coast from a different perspective.
• Activity Pembrokeshire: Based in Pembroke, these folks offer coasteering adventures for £55-£75, focusing on the south Pembrokeshire coastline.
• Tenby Adventure: If you are staying in or near Tenby, these guys offer coasteering trips for £50-£70, exploring the coastline around this popular resort town.
• Outer Reef Surf School: Based in Pembroke, these folks offer coasteering adventures for £55-£75, focusing on the south Pembrokeshire coastline.

Is Coasteering For You?

It’s mostly for everyone. You need to be reasonably fit and comfortable in the water. A basic swimming ability is essential. If you have a fear of heights, some jumps might be challenging, but a good guide will never pressure you to do anything you're not comfortable with. Kids can join from about 8 years old, depending on the operator.

Sea Kayaking: Explore Hidden Coves

Pembrokeshire's coastline is riddled with hidden coves, sea arches, and smugglers' inlets that are only accessible from the water. Sea kayaking is a cracking way to explore these secret spots, and get a workout in the process.

Where to Paddle

• St. Davids Peninsula: Launch from Porthclais Harbour and explore the dramatic cliffs and islands around St. Davids Head. This area is exposed, so check the forecast carefully.
• Daugleddau Estuary: For a more sheltered paddle, head to the Daugleddau Estuary (also known as Milford Haven). This drowned river valley offers calm waters and stunning scenery. You can launch from Neyland or Pembroke Dock.
• Tenby: Paddling from Tenby lets you explore the iconic coastline, including Caldey Island. Again, be mindful of tides and currents.

Guided Tours or Self-Guided?

If you're new to sea kayaking, definitely go for a guided tour. The operators listed above (TYF Adventure, Preseli Venture, Activity Pembrokeshire, Tenby Adventure) all offer sea kayaking trips, typically ranging from £50-£95 depending on the length and location. TYF Adventure's "Sea Kayaking Safari" is a popular option.

A guide will teach you the basics of paddling, navigation, and safety. They'll also point out interesting wildlife and geological features. Plus, they'll know the best places to stop for a picnic!

If you're an experienced kayaker, you can rent a kayak and explore on your own. Several places along the coast offer rentals, but make sure you have the necessary skills and equipment (including a VHF radio and appropriate clothing).

Sea Kayaking Suitability

Sea kayaking requires a bit more skill and stamina than coasteering. You'll be paddling for several hours, so you need to be reasonably fit. It's also important to be comfortable in open water and have a good understanding of tides and currents. Kids can join guided tours from about 12 years old, depending on the operator and the conditions.

Other Coastal Adventures

Pembrokeshire's adventure scene isn't just limited to coasteering and kayaking. Here are a few other options to consider:

• Surfing: With its exposed coastline, Pembrokeshire gets some decent surf. Newgale and Whitesands are popular spots for beginners. TYF Adventure and Preseli Venture offer surfing lessons.
• Climbing: The cliffs around Pembroke offer world-class sport climbing. If you're an experienced climber, bring your gear. If not, TYF Adventure runs climbing courses for all levels.
• Coastal Path Hiking: Don't underestimate the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It's a national trail for a reason, with incredible views and challenging terrain. Tackle a section of it for a day hike. Consider the Marloes Peninsula loop for a mix of beaches, cliffs, and wildlife.
• Wild Swimming: Pembrokeshire's clear waters are ideal for a refreshing dip. Head to a secluded cove or a sheltered inlet for a swim. Preseli Venture offers guided wild swimming experiences.
• Bodyboarding: A slightly tamer but still fun way to experience the waves. Lots of beaches have board rentals available.

Seasonal Considerations

Pembrokeshire in summer is glorious. Long days, warm sunshine, and (relatively) calm seas. But it's also busy, and prices are higher.

Spring and autumn can be equally rewarding, with fewer crowds and stunning coastal colours. The sea temperature will be cooler, so you'll definitely need a good wetsuit.

Winter can be wild and unpredictable. Storms lash the coast, and many operators close down. However, if you're an experienced adventurer and prepared for the conditions, you can have some truly epic experiences. Just be sure to check the weather forecast and be prepared to change your plans at short notice.

Getting There and Around

Pembrokeshire is located in the far southwest corner of Wales. The nearest train stations are in Haverfordwest and Pembroke Dock. From there, you'll need a car to explore the coast. Public transport is limited, especially in rural areas.

Driving times:

• Cardiff to St. Davids: 3-4 hours
• Swansea to Tenby: 1.5-2 hours
• Fishguard to Abereiddi: 30 minutes

Parking can be a pain in the peak season. Many popular spots have limited parking, and you may have to walk a considerable distance. Be prepared, and bring some change for the parking meters.

So, ditch the deckchair and get out there and explore. Pembrokeshire's coast is waiting. And once you've conquered Pembrokeshire, why not head north to Snowdonia for some mountain adventures, or east to the Brecon Beacons for some hiking and caving? Wales has it all.